Everest at risk as new road conquers roof of the world

The harsh strip lighting of Lhasa's cavernous railway station illuminates a tiny Tibetan girl as her mother tucks her in on an oil-stained patch of ground. Dozens more rag-wrapped pilgrims on their way to Jokhang Temple settle in cheek by jowl in the darkness. Child porters scurry back and forward carrying the brightly coloured luggage of Chinese tourists and wicker baskets of yak dung, used to fuel stoves.
Crackling loudly over the PA system, a folk singer croons longingly of the Himalayas and the beauty of Qomolongma, known in the West as Mount Everest. 'It calls Everest mother earth,' says Kelsang, a Tibetan guide, grimacing at the static. 'They play this over and over again. It is a Chinese song written about Tibet. 'Propaganda,' he says, pointing at a huge TV screen showing images of demure, dancing Tibetans. 'It's part of the myth they want the Chinese tourists to buy into. They are turning Tibet into Everestland, that way it's easier to forget the past and make us into a theme park.'

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